Won't shift! Help!

[NunyaBusiness]

I just replaced the Isuzu 5-spd transmission in my 87 4 cyl with a junk yard
tranny. I checked everything when it wasn't running and it shifted
beautifully. After I started the engine, it wouldn't shift into anything
but 5th and really grinding trying to get into reverse. I checked the
reservior, and it was overfull, so I sucked out a cup of fluid. It checks
fine now, so I started the engine again. Now it shifts, but it still grinds
a little and it's difficult to shift.
The hydraulic clutch is full and bled.
The tranny cables are rigged correctly.
Now what?
I'm thinking maybe the fluid needed to soak in and around the synchros, but
since replacing that tranny sucked, I'm hesitant to try my theory because I
REALLY don't want to do it again.
TIA,
Christopher

[R W Hughes]

Post by NunyaBusiness
The hydraulic clutch is full and bled.

No

If the transmission will shift into a forward gear with the engine off
but not or only with much force when the engine is running and grinds
when shifting into reverse, your clutch is not releasing all the way.
The most common cause is incomplete bleeding although early models had
problems with the release arm on the transaxle and even later models
could have a bent bracket where the clutch master cylinder pushrod
attaches to the clutch pedal. This last can be checked by looking, the
pin that goes through the end of the rod must be exactly at right
angles. If it is tilted a little the bracket it is mounted on is bent
which reduces clutch travel. Also, if you didn't push the operating rod
of the slave cylinder all the way into the cylinder several times while
bleeding it, you didn't get all the air out. Typically a clutch system
that needs bleeding will feel unusually light, the pedal is real easy to
push down and the force needed doesn't change as you get close to the floor.

[NunyaBusiness]

Sir,

I tried what you suggested and did get out some more air. It does feel
tighter, and altho it got a little better, it's still not good enough to let
my wife drive the car.

I checked the brackets - they all seemed fine.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks again,

C

Post by NunyaBusiness
The hydraulic clutch is full and bled.

No
If the transmission will shift into a forward gear with the engine off but
not or only with much force when the engine is running and grinds when
shifting into reverse, your clutch is not releasing all the way. The most
common cause is incomplete bleeding although early models had problems
with the release arm on the transaxle and even later models could have a
bent bracket where the clutch master cylinder pushrod attaches to the
clutch pedal. This last can be checked by looking, the pin that goes
through the end of the rod must be exactly at right angles. If it is
tilted a little the bracket it is mounted on is bent which reduces clutch
travel. Also, if you didn't push the operating rod of the slave cylinder
all the way into the cylinder several times while bleeding it, you didn't
get all the air out. Typically a clutch system that needs bleeding will
feel unusually light, the pedal is real easy to push down and the force
needed doesn't change as you get close to the floor.
--
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
29:40.237N, 95:28.726W or perhaps 30:55.265N, 95:20.590W
Houston, Texas "The city with too much Oxygen"